Orange wines are dividing wine-lovers into two camps: Those
who find orange wine thrilling and complex, and those who say it is the wine of
trendy sommeliers and hipsters.
David Harvey of Raeburn Fine Wines coined the term ‘orange
wine’ in 2004 to describe a white wine where the grapes were left in contact
with their skins for days, weeks, or even months. Essentially, orange wine is
white wine made as if it were a red.
However, the trend of orange wine may be new, but winemaking that
produces orange wine is the oldest in the world. The wine has a unique color
and is more intense on the nose and palate, and may possess significant
tannins. Good orange wines balance the right amount of juiciness and acid, with
hints of herbs, bruised stone fruits, or burnt orange. Orange wines also go by the name ‘amber
wines.’ Many mistakenly think the amber color signals oxidation or that the
skin contact spoils the wine. The color does not come from oxidation, but
rather the grapes’ skins.
Orange wines have been described as very approachable and
well balanced with a fresh, fruity core. The combination of freshness with
tannin makes for a versatile food wine. Levi Dalton, former sommelier at New
York Italian restaurant Convivio and current writer/broadcaster explains,
“Orange wines were my get-out-of-jail-free card. We had a chef who would switch
from fish to meat and back again on a tasting menu and orange wines paired
effortlessly with every course.”
Morgan Calcote, general manager and beverage director of the
renowned restaurant FIG in Charleston, South Carolina, states, “The dining
public is savvier than ever, and they are willing to make leaps of faith based
on the recommendations of knowledgeable servers or sommeliers.”
Vineyards from California to Slovenia are making orange
wines, and restaurants across the country are adding orange wines to their wine
lists. Boutique wine shops are having difficulty keeping the wine in stock.
“There’s novelty to orange wines right now,” Calcote says.
“Not quite a white, not quite a red, they occupy this ambiguous place in
between. Orange wines are their own unique thing.”
References
Fast Company (2015). The Rise Of Orange Wine. Retrieved September 24, 2015, from http://www.fastcodesign.com/3049731/the-rise-of-orange-wine.
Woolf, S. (2015). Orange Wines: It’s Time To Get In Touch. Retrieved September 24, 2015,
from http://www.decanter.com/features/orange-wines-it-s-time-to-get-in-touch-245524/.
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